REVEALED-12-web - Flipbook - Page 20
Ju猀琀 Dandy
Lingerie Elements Vamp Up Menswear
BY KIMBERLY CIHLAR
Lingerie elements are wending their way into men’s wear.
Florals, velvets, embroider y, ruffles
agrees, and he’s attached to the idea
and flow y silhouettes. Head-to-toe
that men are becoming more like
monochromatic or all-over patterned
women in the way they dress. Over the
dressing. Eye-catching tailoring that’s
years, Gaultier has sent men wearing
androgynous, artistically accessorizing
skirts down his menswear runways, and
and maybe even a bit over the top. While
promoted details like bold cut-outs on
Coco Chanel famously advised followers
tailored jackets, features that bring to
to remove one outfit element before
mind peek-a-boo lingerie.
going out, today’s dandy does quite the
opposite.
At last year’s fall collection, Italian design
team Dolce & Gabbana sent out actual
And it’s just in time. Black Dandyism, a
girdles and corsets over menswear
sartorial style statement tethered in
pieces, shapewear yanked straight out
tailoring and political stance, will be
of the lingerie world. British Jamaican
celebrated at the Met’s Costume Institute
menswear designer Grace Wales Bonner,
exhibition “Superfine: Tailoring Black
who collaborates with Adidas, takes a
Style,” starting in May (see sidebar).
more demure path, yet over-the-top in its
own way — an intricacy of cowrie shells,
Thom Browne, a men’s designer who
pearls and Ghanaian beading adorning
pushes the limits of men’s tailoring, has
the edges of her Savile Row tailored
昀椀lled his runways with 昀氀oral embroidered
menswear.
suits, men’s handbags, skirts or shorts
with the not-normally-seen jockstraps
The popular sheer lingerie trend has been
above waistbands.
translated into menswear by designers
as dramatic as Rick Owens and wearable
Much of his play with shape, size and
as Prada for shirts and jackets over the
a 昀氀ash of the usually hidden, once the
past few seasons. The late Virgil Abloh
parvenue of much women’s lingerie and
in his collections for Louis Vuitton, early
loungewear, has been heavily borrowed
on dressed musicians modeling on his
for the boys. As Browne states, “men
catwork in the delicate fabric.
should be able to wear anything.”
Dandy st yle has been embraced
Dries Van Noten
French designer Jean Paul Gaultier
R E V E A L E D - THE W INTE R IS SUE #12
stylistically by the artworld, too. Artist
